Beauty fix: Can anything help to fix damaged post-manicure nails?

We’ve all been there with those beautiful shiny, indestructible manicures that bring fewer feelings of delight and more of dread as removal time approaches.

Sometimes they chip and peel off. Sometimes they start to lift. Sometimes, the full horror of what’s underneath only comes after they are removed. And then, as many of us have found to our chagrin, can come weeks or even months of damaged nails and promises of never again.

“Gel polish looks amazing, but the damage usually comes from how it’s removed,” says Suzanne Fowler, founder of 14 Day Mani at-home gel manicure kits. “If you’re peeling or scraping it off, that’s where things can go wrong. The key is to remove it gently and never rush it. Patience really does protect your nails.”

Are there any tricks to making a long-wear manicure more nail friendly?

Fowler says the secret is in the prep work and this is something to look out for when getting a salon manicure and when doing nails at home.

If the nail is properly prepped, the polish will not only adhere better, but will lift away better in the end, too. What you don’t want – and what causes problems – is when removal requires an industrial-strength attack that not only peels away polish but also the surface of the nail itself.

Fowler recommends a good undercoat to create a good, clean surface and a layer of protection. “A light buff can also help polish grip better,” she says, “but don’t overdo it.”

Is there anything I can do while the polish is on to avoid damage?

Some nail technicians suggest using an oil while the polish is on, which might seem odd but makes some sense.

While the oil won’t penetrate the polish, it will keep it from getting dry and brittle to some extent. More importantly however, the oil nourishes the nail bed, where the new nail is growing. A good nail oil also keeps the cuticles from getting dry and ragged and bringing down the whole look.

“Also,” says Fowler, who recommends wearing gloves for washing-up and cleaning, and using a moisturiser, “healthy hands mean healthy nails, so don’t forget the sunscreen as well.”

My nails are already damaged – what can I do to help them back to health?

The most common issue with post-mani nails is that the surface has been removed along with the polish, leaving them thin, brittle and prone to breakage. Another issue caused by overenthusiastic polish-removal is small tears in the nails that then break and cause splits that take months to grow out.

Many brands now have clear or even coloured polishes that include strengthening or binding ingredients that almost act as scaffolding while the nail repairs. Look out for ingredients such as keratin, which binds to the nails for increased strength; hydrolysed wheat protein to boost repair, and dimethicone, to increase flexibility and reduced brittleness.

“Outside of the classic cuticle oil to help keep them hydrated and healthy, supplements with ingredients such as biotin can improve nail growth and strength,” says Fowler. “In between manis, try giving your nails a little break. Using oils to help them bounce back makes a big difference.”

In terms of avoiding nail damage, is there anything to look out for when choosing a salon?

“Cleanliness is a big one,” says Fowler. “Make sure they’re properly sanitising their tools and keeping the space neat. Don’t be shy about asking what products they use; good salons are always happy to share.”

Furthermore, don’t be shy to speak up if you think a manicurist is going too hard on your polish removal. After all, you’ve paid for it. If there’s drilling, it should only be to break up the surface of the polish and should penetrate no further. If they are scraping too hard, they are scraping off the top layer of nail and it’s your nail, so say something.

And finally, if your polish is starting to lift, don’t help it along and peel it off. Ever.

14 Day Mani Perfect Prep Gel Polish Primer, €11, 14daymanicure.com

It seems obvious to say that nails should be clean and dry before polish goes on, but there’s more to dry than meets the eye. This prep product dehydrates the nail surface by absorbing excess oils, thus creating a better grip for polish. This brand also has complete kits for at-home gel nails, with LED lamps and a huge range of polishes.

Essie Good as New Nail Care Treatment in Light Pink, €12.49, available nationwide, boots.ie

Nails can look good while they repair with this clever treatment product from Essie. The ceramides in this sheer polish adhere to the surface of the nail, making it look instantly smoother and shinier, but also sealing in natural oils for repair. The pale pink colour is a well-polished bonus.

Sally Hansen Hard as Nails, €9.99, available nationwide

It is what says it is – a nail hardener for extreme emergencies. Apply it like a polish and nails are instantly stronger thanks to film-former ingredients, including nylon, which literally give strength and bend to the nail. This means less breaking and cracking instantly, though some of the ingredients are drying so make sure to apply oil to cuticles and nail bed.