Our critic is seriously impressed by the slices and small plates at Dublin’s newest pizzeria
Newly opened Square Dish, St Stephen’s Green, Dublin. Photo: Frank McGrath
Over the past couple of years, Dublin has taken the slice shop to its heart. There are still people queuing down the street for the OG Bambino on Stephen Street, while the Merrion Street branch often tapes a ‘Sold Out’ sign to its door. On Drury Street, Mani is a place of pilgrimage for its Roman-style slices, particularly the carbonara. And Doom Slice on Dame Lane serves what has until now — correct me if I’m wrong — been the city’s only Detroit-style pizzas.
Now we have Square Dish on St Stephen’s Green, occupying what was formerly a branch of Dealz. During the pandemic lockdowns, Dealz, as a purveyor of essential items, was able to stay open when other shops were closed, and a friend, within whose 2km limit it sat, remembers spending an inordinate amount of time there, browsing the shelves for anything that might relieve her boredom.
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