LONDON – A turquoise and diamond Cartier tiara belonging to Nancy Astor, the American-born British aristocrat and first woman to take up a seat in Parliament, will be auctioned by Bonhams on June 5.
The bandeau tiara, with its carved turquoise plumes, leaves and scrolls, is on the market for the first time since Nancy’s husband, Lord Astor, purchased it from Cartier in 1930. The pre-sale estimate ranges from 250,000 pounds to 350,000 pounds.
The piece comes from the Astors’ collection, and was inherited by the present owner. It is the star piece of the wider London Jewels sale, which will take place live at Bonhams’ New Bond Street headquarters.
Jean Ghika, Bonhams global head of jewelry, said the Astor tiara “dates to a period when Cartier London were at the height of their creative prowess. Cartier were later commissioned to produce a similar tiara for Nancy’s sister. However, the design of Nancy Astor’s tiara is truly unique.”
Cartier made the original tiara in 1929, and later instructed English Art Works to add the carved turquoise plumes and leaves to the diamond bandeau in 1930.
Ghika added: “The distinctive plumes, leaves and scrolls carved in turquoise were drawn from Egyptian, Indian and Persian motifs, which were extensively explored by Cartier throughout the early 20th century. The firm’s Eastern-inspired jewels became hugely fashionable as a result. The tiara is exceptionally rare, and we feel honored to have the opportunity to present it for sale.”
The tiara is set with old brilliant, single, and rose-cut diamonds. An old brilliant-cut diamond sits at the center, while three fluted turquoise plumes have been set with brilliant and single-cut diamond stems. Each side of the tiara features a radiating, fan-shaped turquoise panel design.
Nancy Astor, Viscountess Astor, was born Nancy Witcher Langhorne in Danville, Virginia. After marrying her second husband, Waldorf Astor, 2nd Viscount Astor, she settled in the U.K.
She later became the first woman to take her seat in Parliament, serving from 1919 to 1945. While serving, she advocated for temperance, welfare, education reform and women’s rights.
The Cartier tiara is being sold for the first time since Nancy Astor acquired it in 1931.
According to Bonhams, the tiara was first recorded in the Cartier archives in 1929 when the jeweler instructed English Art Works to add carved turquoise plumes and leaves to an existing diamond bandeau.
The completed tiara is listed in Cartier’s records in November 1930, and a month later it was sold to Viscount Astor. In 1931, Nancy wore the tiara to the premiere of “City Lights” at the Dominion Theatre in London.
At one point she loaned it to her sister, Phyllis Langhorne Brand, for a court presentation at Buckingham Palace.
Inspired by the design, Phyllis’ husband, Robert Henry Brand, commissioned Cartier to produce a similar turquoise and diamond tiara in 1935. That second tiara is currently on display at the V&A’s Cartier exhibition, which opened last month and runs until Nov. 16.
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