Our critic says the food is undeniably superb, although the surroundings could do with a pick-me-up
Wild brill, beetroot, fennel and smoked eel. Photo: Lucinda O’Sullivan.
After four years of blood, sweat and tears in the kitchen, Andy McFadden’s Glovers Alley at the Fitzwilliam Hotel on St Stephen’s Green achieved its first Michelin Star in 2022, and has since maintained its status quo.
It had opened in 2018, with lots of hype, in what had previously been the space occupied by Kevin Thornton who it was generally felt, after 25 years of glittering stars, had been badly shafted by Michelin, something that was believed to have played a part in the subsequent closure of his restaurant.
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